Candy pants

I made these to match the Short Notice cardigan I made for my friend's daughter. I designed this baby pants pattern where you can mix and match and do the edging, colours and texture that you want. There is also the option of making the leg longer and folding it up when your baby puts it on. That way they can use it for a longer time as they grow.

A great project for using up leftovers from your stash, or for a last minute gift :)

Size: 3-9 months
Yarn: Aran weight yarn of your choice suitable for babies.
Needles: 5.5mm and 5mm needles
Gauge: 16 sts and 22 rows of stockinette stitch per 10 cm (4 inches).


Top part

On 5mm needles, CO 60 sts with the twisted German cast on method. 

Join to work in the round: the beginning of round is the middle of the back. Remember to place a marker if you are working on circular needles. 

Rnds 1-8: K2, P2 to end

Switch to 5.5mm needles

Rnd 9-13: K all sts
Rnd 14: *K3, Kfb* repeat until last 4 sts in rnd, K4 (74 sts)
Rnd 15-36: K all sts


Left leg

Before separating for each leg, 2 sts are decreased at the crotch: 

Next round: BO 1 st on beg of rnd, K 34 sts, slip last knitted st back on the left needle, pass next st over the last knitted st, then slip st back on right needle. Place 37 sts on holder. 

Work 35 remaining sts on the round

K all sts until leg measures 5 cm (2 inches)

Dec rnd: K1, ssk, K to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1
K all sts for next 3 rnds
Repeat these last 4 rnds 4 times in total (27 sts)

K all sts for the next 10 rnds or desired length.


Edging: Seed stitch

Switch to 5mm needles.

Note: if you are switching colors here like I did, K one round in the new color first without seed st. This is so that the purl bumps on the first round of seed stitch don't pick up the previous color.   

Rnd 1: *K1, P1* to end
Rnd 2: *P1, K1* to end

Repeat these two rounds 4 times or until desired length. 

BO all stitches relatively loosely -- I recommend a regular BO on larger needles. If you plan to make a folded edge, a stretchy BO method might be better (this is a relatively uncomplicated option).


Right leg

Put sts from holder to the 5.5mm needles and join yarn. Here it might be smart to leave a tail of yarn which you can use later to sew the crotch together.

Continue the same way as with left leg. 

Finishing
Sew together at the crotch and all loose ends.

Ravatar for the 2010 Ravelympics

Simple Seaman's Socks

The first time I made these socks, my intention was to give a bit of joy to a friend who then worked as a deck officer. He had married recently but was a little heartbroken because he had to very soon afterwards be away on a ship for four months. I found out in short notice, and I wanted to make something practical for him, so I decided on these socks, originally made with sport-weight yarn.

Over the years, this simple and versatile pattern has become my go-to recipe for making socks. It makes a perfect opportunity for learning new techniques as a beginner, or an easy and useful project if you are more advanced and already familiar with the techniques. 

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UPDATE March 2017: Pattern modified for two sizes

UPDATE December 2020: I wrote more detailed instructions and added links and notes.

UPDATE July 2021: Added a size and an option for smaller needles. I will be adding better pictures soon.

• Size: Women's with larger needles (Women's with smaller needles, and Men's with larger needles) Men's with smaller needles
• Needles: 2.50mm or 3.00mm
• Gauge: 13 sts / 16 rows = 2" of stockinette st on larger needles. 15 sts / 20 rows = 2" on smaller needles
• Yardage: 300-500 yards of fingering yarn

Some helpful notes: 

1. To avoid using markers: If you are using the magic loop method or double-pointed needles for knitting on the round, you don't need to place markers, just make sure you knit half the sts each time.
2. The 2p-2k rib is optional. Its presence is purely practical, as a rib adds some more elasticity to the socks. Feel free to dress up this rudimentary pattern by adding a fancier texture where the rib is mentioned, or dress it down by omitting the rib altogether.
3. Most wool yarns expand after their first wash, and then even more with wear. Allow for at least 0.5-1" negative ease when it comes to the length of the sock. 
4. To avoid holes on the sides at the end of the short row heel: On the last row of the short row heel, when you pick up the final wrap, wrap the next st also, which is not already wrapped and it's not one of the heel sts. Do this on both sides and make a rather tight wrap. Pick up the loops and knit (or purl) them together with their sts the next time you knit those sts, ie on the next round. 
5. Switching to smaller needles on the last few rounds might be a good idea to avoid an over-stretched cuff after wearing the socks for a while.

Instructions:

Judy’s magic cast on: 20 (24) 28 sts. 

• First round: *place marker, k 10 (12) 14* repeat to end of rnd
• Next round: *k1, m1L, k to 1 st before marker, m1R, k1* repeat to end of rnd

 Repeat those two rounds until you have 52 (60) 68 sts. 

• Next round: *p2, k2* repeat until marker, k until end of rnd.

Repeat this round until your work is 2" (2 1/2") 3" shorter than length of foot (you can find this out easily online if you know the shoe size of the person you are making the socks for). 

• First half of next round: remove marker, *p2, k2* until marker, remove marker. 
• Second half of next round: Make a short-row heel on the remaining 26 (30) 34 sts, with a shortest row of 10 (12) 14 sts. (See note 4)

• Next round: *p2, k2* repeat until the end of round. If you have added a wrapped st on each side to avoid holes, knit (or purl) these sts together with their loops.

Continue with a p2-k2 rib on all sts until the sock is as long as you want it to be. Consider switching to smaller needles for the last inch or so. 

Finish with a stretchy bind-off (Elizabeth Zimmerman sewn bind off or Jeny's surprisingly stretchy bind-off, which is the one I personally prefer). 

Repeat for a second sock.

Into's

This is a blog I made to publish the few and occasional knitting designs I come up with.

I don't blog much so there's no reason to follow this.

All designs can be found in Ravelry (username: Pipervika).

Thanks